Charming Catalonians
The crisp morning air helps us shake off the last bit of sleepiness as we share breakfast with our friends (and Can Boix the cat). We load our luggage onto the tour van and we talk of the ride ahead. Today we have to leave paradise in Peramola, but our guides assure us the best is yet to come.
The roads lead north toward Andorra, a small country sandwiched in between northern Spain and the south of France. Nestled high in the Pyrenees peaks, this 170-square-mile country patiently waits for us as we wind our way higher and higher toward the border. We stop long enough for our guide to explain to the border patrol that the 12 bikes behind him are with a tour group.
Once waved through, we begin passing shopping center after shopping center. Andorra’s tax-free status makes it a popular place for purchasing anything from perfume to pottery. So we stop for a few minutes to wander the shops in the heart of town. Unfortunately the dollar’s currently weak status against the Euro makes everything that looks promising look less so. I am determined to find some gifts for family and friends, but I am certain better opportunities lie ahead.
With no bargains found, we decide to make better use of our rest time here in Andorra by having an espresso outside a small café on the edge of town. These types of tiny establishments are fast becoming welcome breaks for us — not just for the coffee or to rest our legs, but to meet and be served by the proprietors, who are often, it appears, older married couples. They run very clean, charming restaurants that are sometimes no larger than the size of most America kitchens with a counter or bar, and perhaps one or two small tables and chairs. This time of year, most people eat outside, where there is a bit more seating in an outdoor café type setting. Even still, our group tends to take over most of the available seating at these stops, moving tables and chairs together so we can visit. It is becoming increasingly clear that everyone is enjoying the time together, and bonds are beginning to form. We laugh a lot and take many pictures of each other. Even the proprietors seem to enjoy our stopping off on this journey through the Pyrenees.
Frankly I have found the Catalonians generally very inviting and helpful regardless of my terrible attempts at speaking Catalan or Castilian (Spanish). So ordering and paying at restaurants is not that difficult and always comes with a smile and a friendly “ci,” which of course means yes. We have also learned the simple courtesy of saying “buenos dias” (good day) when greeting someone, and “gracias” (thank you) when leaving. So far, it has paid off in great service and an enjoyable meal at nearly every place we’ve been.
